A Salute to Vergenoegd Löw – Cape Heritage Estate Rekindled

Napoleon’s troops had a charming custom when marching through the Burgundy wine region en route to battle or to quell some bout of frequent Gallic civil unrest: they would salute the famed Le Montrachet vineyards as they passed, out of respect for what those vines meant to the French wine culture. And to France itself.

As a current pacifist and former member of the South African Defence Force, saluting no longer forms part of my daily repertoire. Yet here in the Cape, there are certain wine farms and vineyards demanding a quiet reverence, a moment of dreamy introspection, and deserved respect every time they appear along the road.

Groot and Klein Constantia, where the Cape’s wine story began in 1685, are two such places. Then there’s La Motte and L’Ormarins in the Franschhoek Valley. In Stellenbosch, names like Muratie, Rust en Vrede, and Meerlust stand out as historic beacons – not only for helping to establish South Africa’s reputation for wine quality, but also for shaping the unique cultural and historical legacy of Cape wine.

This legacy matters as much for a wine nation as the ability to produce high-quality wines in diverse styles from varied soils and climates. Culture and heritage – built over centuries of dedication to the vine and to winemaking – are prized national assets, essential for building a wine country’s image, reputation, and identity. Without those three, any wine country is little more than an uninspired zero.

One historic Cape wine estate I’ve always quietly saluted for its cultural and oenological legacy is one you don’t easily spot from the road – but always know it’s there. Vergenoegd sits tucked away near the busy route in and out of Stellenbosch, just off the N2 highway. It’s not visible at first glance, but its presence is felt – just like the enduring prestige of its wines and its identity as a historical landmark of Stellenbosch.

Vergenoegd’s roots trace back to 1696. It’s a true Cape gem, complete with a grand manor house dating from 1773 – though recent discussions suggest it might even date to 1713. Vines were planted and wine was made here as early as the VOC (Dutch East India Company) era, but its real fame arrived with the Faure family, who settled here in 1820.

In the 1930s, Vergenoegd was known for supplying premium Shiraz grapes to the KWV and played a pioneering role in South Africa’s sherry production. Charlie Niehaus, winemaker at KWV, was asked by his boss, Abraham Izak Perold (yes, he of Pinotage fame), to find the special flor yeast needed to create the unique flavour of sherry. That yeast was first discovered in South Africa, right here at Vergenoegd. For years after, the estate was as renowned for its fine sherries as it was for the rich Shiraz made for KWV.

By the 1970s, Vergenoegd was gaining a reputation for its Cabernet Sauvignon, although it never quite managed to match the prestige of its more celebrated neighbour, Meerlust. The Faure era ended in 2015, when German entrepreneur and heritage conservationist Peter Löw purchased the estate and renamed it Vergenoegd Löw. His vision: to restore this piece of Cape wine history into one of Stellenbosch’s premier wine destinations, both in terms of wine quality and as a tranquil rural haven, complete with manicured gardens and striking whitewashed heritage buildings. Where wine culture, legacy and history breathe.

Under the new regime, led by Corius Visser, old vines were uprooted and new ones planted – a recognition that wine quality must lie at the heart of any successful brand. Alongside this came a strong commitment to sustainable, holistic farming. Vergenoegd Löw is now home to an impressive array of hoofed and feathered co-workers: around 1 000 Indian runner ducks patrol the vineyards, gobbling up pests; sheep and cattle munch on unwanted shoots and fertilise the soil with enthusiastic spurts and droppings.

The goal is to give day visitors – and guests staying in the estate’s hotel and lodgings – the experience of a living, working farm. This model of agri-tourism, already hugely popular in Europe, is still finding its feet in South Africa.

Personally, I can only spend so long watching hundreds of quacking ducks scarpering about the place trying to mount each other, or placid Dexter cattle staring at you with soft, vacant eyes. Because, at the end of the day, it’s about the wine – and at Vergenoegd Löw, guests are still lucky enough to taste the wines in the estate’s historic manor house. And if ever there were a place where a heritage estate’s wines deserve to be tasted, it’s in that old house, with its thick cool walls, antique door frames, and the scent of thatch and wood filling the air – the perfect setting for wines born of legacy.

Though Vergenoegd Löw is part of Stellenbosch, its location is quite unlike the region’s more familiar mountain slopes. In fact, like neighbouring Meerlust, it’s essentially a coastal vineyard – the breakers of False Bay lie just three kilometres away. While many Stellenbosch vineyards cling to mountain slopes 450 metres above sea level, Vergenoegd Löw’s highest point is just 12 metres up. The terrain is flat – enough to make a Dutchman homesick.

This setting produces truly distinctive wines. For one, Vergenoegd is the only site in Stellenbosch with chalk-rich soils, formed from ancient marine deposits. In summer, the southeastern winds sweep in from the nearby ocean, and from budburst to harvest, this part of Stellenbosch enjoys the most consistently cool day-night temperatures in the region. Add in even sun exposure, and the result is a ripening grape’s dream environment.

Winemaker Vusi Dalicuba is making the most of this. His wines show it – particularly the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, both central to the estate’s bid to reclaim the glory of its past.

The Cabernet Sauvignon strikes a fine balance between classic, firm tannins – which give it presence and ageability – and a supple, juicy palate of ripe plum, cherry, and fynbos. As for the Chardonnay, here is further proof that Stellenbosch and South Africa produces world-class examples of the variety. Vibrant citrus and a nutty fragrance lead, while the finish is silky and seductive, with just a touch of butter.

Salute, and march on. Another chapter of Cape wine’s beauty and brilliance has risen once more.