With the first winter rains barely settling over the Boland and the vineyards’ autumn leaves drifting gently to the ground, the Cape wine industry has – as it does each year – entered a new season: that of wine competitions and shows.
From now until October, the calendar is crowded with events where row upon row of Cape wines, spanning all cultivars and styles, are scrutinised by panels of seasoned judges. After days of deliberation and reflection, the results are typically announced at glamorous ceremonies, with gleaming trophies and gold medals awarded to those winemakers whose labours are deemed superior to those of their peers.
On the whole, the benefits of these competitions outweigh the drawbacks. This remains true even though the sheer number of events has, arguably, dulled the shine of the accolades handed out. Still, excellent winemakers and their products deserve recognition. For the consumer, the results provide at least a general indication of which wines a group of experts have judged to be of exceptional quality – guidance that may well influence their purchasing decisions when it comes to investing in a bottle.
Of course, sceptics raise valid concerns about the credibility of these competitions. “A handful of judges’ opinions shouldn’t define a wine’s success,” they argue, or: “How can a wine’s subtle complexities truly be appreciated when it’s assessed alongside 30 or 40 others in such a short time?”
These are fair questions, and the answers largely depend on the calibre of the judges and the standards of the competition in question. Most importantly, they hinge on the credibility of the event itself – on whether it presents as a professional, well-run entity dedicated to the serious task of identifying and celebrating outstanding wines, and of serving as a yardstick for communicating the quality proposition of South African wine.
In this regard, Michael Fridjhon’s Investec Trophy Wine Show stands head and shoulders above the rest. Its rigorous judging criteria and the broader insights it offers into the current state of South African wine make it the industry benchmark.
Each year, the Trophy Wine Show holds a feedback session several weeks before the awards ceremony, during which the judges offer an overview of their impressions and findings – without naming producers or disclosing results, which remain unknown to them until the official announcement. These sessions, open to the media and interested parties, provide a rare window into the judging process and opinions gleaned.
Particularly valuable is the inclusion of international judges, whose outsider perspectives often bring refreshing clarity to a somewhat inward-looking South African wine industry. This year, British wine writer and critic Tamlyn Currin and Australian winemaker and judge Tom Carson provided compelling commentary.
Currin, speaking about Chenin Blanc, called it the jewel in South Africa’s wine crown. “It was an honour to judge your Chenin Blancs,” she said. “What struck me was how the various styles—from light and fresh to fuller, oak-aged expressions—overlap in their delivery of true top-quality wines. South African winemakers are demonstrating masterful craftsmanship with Chenin Blanc. You have the right soils, the right climate, and, in my opinion, Chenin Blanc is at the heart of what defines South African wine.”
On Sauvignon Blanc, Currin was equally enthusiastic, suggesting that Cape expressions surpass those of New Zealand, often seen as the global benchmark. “Your Sauvignon Blancs are more layered and complex. New Zealand’s offerings seem monotonous by comparison,” she said.
Just as this praise began to stir a sense of national pride, Tom Carson offered a more sobering perspective – this time on Chardonnay, often considered one of South Africa’s strongest suits.
“Chardonnay is a crucial varietal in Australia, and we dedicate a great deal of attention to it,” Carson said. “There were certainly some good wines this year, but overall, I see room for significant improvement in this category.”
He noted a tendency toward richer, riper styles. “There’s a place for those, but I’d like to see more complexity and layered minerality. Many producers seem to play it safe. There’s an opportunity here to be more daring – to craft wines that are intriguing and adventurous. It feels as though too many Chardonnays are made merely to appease consumer expectations, sticking to one predictable style. The grape quality is there, but a bolder, more experimental approach in the cellar – through the use of oak, wild fermentations, and so on – could really elevate the category.”
That said, Carson did single out Shiraz as a standout success—a grape variety Australians know well.
“This is the third time I’ve judged at the Trophy Wine Show, and I’ve never seen the Shiraz category this strong,” he remarked. “The wines are vibrant, fruit-forward, and varietally expressive. Not one was over-oaked. It’s clear that producers are handling Shiraz with skill, and the cooler vineyard sites contribute freshness and elegance. I was thoroughly impressed, and I’ll be letting my colleagues in Australia know that South Africa is right on our heels.”
His praise was less generous when it came to Cabernet Sauvignon, another of South Africa’s flagship varietals. “Overripe, heavy-handed, with some wines appearing almost brown in the glass,” he said. “Worse still, many lacked clear varietal character – a cardinal sin for Cabernet. A wine must express its cultivar.”
It’s important to note that while the Trophy Wine Show attracted 650 entries this year, that still represents a limited cross-section of the country’s full wine offering. Nonetheless, with only 40 wines receiving gold medals (95 points or higher), the bar is high, and the show draws entries from South Africa’s top-tier producers. The rigorous judging standards and incisive feedback lend weight to both the awards and the criticisms.
Ultimately, it’s this feedback, reflection, and ongoing dialogue that elevates a wine competition beyond the simple awarding of medals. By encouraging scrutiny, insight, and debate, competitions like the Trophy Wine Show play a vital role in the long-term advancement of a country’s wine industry – far more so than simply singing the same praises year after year.
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