A Stellenbosch Cabernet Problem

Any organisation purporting to be a successful collective striving towards a shared objective should surely be as open and inclusive as possible in order to ensure a successful path to said objective. So, to put it bluntly, why is the Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective so short-sighted?

The goal of this organisation is important and warrants its existence. Cabernet Sauvignon is the world’s best-known red wine variety, the premium offerings from Bordeaux, Napa, Australia and Chile, commanding attention and excellent price-points, as well as helping bolster these nations’ respective images as top-tier wine countries. South Africa, and specifically the Stellenbosch appellation, has proven itself more then worthy of inclusion on this list of countries with a plethora of Cabernet Sauvignon producers committed to excellence with the variety, and having the track-record to back it all up.

Thus the formation of the Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective, introducing itself as “a collective of Stellenbosch producers, curating the expression of Stellenbosch through Cabernet Sauvignon, joined together in sharing passion, discovery and knowledge. Together we are Stellenbosch Cabernet.”

And the list of 36 members is impressive, as can be found here.

Perusing the list, however, followers of Cabernet Sauvignon wines will note a few famous marques not being present. Tokara, surely one of the New World’s best Cabernet Sauvignon crafters, did not make the cut, nor is it on the bench. Likewise, Rustenberg, which deserves a spot purely on grounds of what this estate has historically done for the reputation of Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon as a whole.

Boekenhoutskloof has performed major things with it its Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon label, and as one of the country’s leading brands would bolster the current Collective line-up. And let’s not forget about Leeu Passant.

I mean, what wine organisation would not like to see Andrea Mullineux, Leeu Passant partner and winemaker, on its membership list? DGB,’s Boschendal has done a smart turn with Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon, too, yet does crack the nod – despite the international gravitas and support somebody of the stature of DGB chairman Tim Hutchinson would bring to the party.

The reason for these and other Cabernet Sauvignon stalwarts – let’s not forget about David Finlayson – not being included in Stellenbosch Cabernet, is that they are not members of the Stellenbosch Wine Routes. Just that.

Now, I have a tremendous tender spot for Stellenbosch Wine Routes. In fact, it got me into the wine game as I assisted then-chairman Johann Krige draft the constitution for a new Stellenbosch Wine Routes 24 years back.

And guess why a new constitution was needed? Because the wards and members of Stellenbosch Wine Routes had become too disparate and independent, and it was deemed necessary to restructure the organisation. So as to be more inclusive and welcoming and open to all wineries making Wine of Origin Stellenbosch product. Because the more united the membership of WO Stellenbosch, the better for brand Stellenbosch.

This is hugely ironic. Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective was started by a team of able wine minds, a blend of old and new showing innovation and vision in providing a platform for the showcasing of the great Cabernet Sauvignon wines made from vineyards set in South Africa’s best-known wine region. Yet, by forgetting the very reason for the existence of Stellenbosch Wine Routes – namely inclusivity among producers making WO Stellenbosch – the organisation has cut of its stem to spite its berries.

It is all so very logical that the pedantic reasoning for excluding certain producers, namely because they are not members of a wine routes organisation, makes me wonder if the South African wine industry will ever get out of its divide-and-rule mindset and obsession with structural limitations.  The logic is: if you make fine Cabernet Sauvignon from grapes originating from Stellenbosch and bottle it as such, one is eligible to be a part of an organisation calling itself a Stellenbosch Collective themed around Cabernet.

As we say in my mother-tongue: Finis en klaar, en hou op om so donners kleinlik te wees.

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2 thoughts on “A Stellenbosch Cabernet Problem

  1. Good questions posed, thanks Emile! Perhaps you should also ask the “excluded” wineries why they elect not to be part of the SB Wine Route? I agree that it needn’t exclude them from this “Collective” initiative, but it’s still weird that the likes of Tokara and Rustenberg do not contribute as members of the Wine Route. And, given that the Wine Route helps to fund his Collective initiative, their decisions certainly complicates matters?

  2. Yeah, I’d like to know how much is push and how much is pull? How many producers are choosing NOT to be part of it? And why?

    What’s in the fine print?

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