Cavalli’s White Renaissance

There are wineries that tiptoe into the cluttered Stellenbosch wine conversation, hoping someone notices. And then there are the ones that walk into the room, order something serious, and make it clear they didn’t come here to play small or just hang.

Cavalli Estate, on the R44 from Stellenbosch direction Somerset West, is the latter.

Not long ago, this Stellenbosch equine-orientated estate was still spoken of as “the newcomer,” the promising one with ambition and shiny architecture. Now? That conversation is over. Cavalli has muscle, confidence, and — more importantly — wines that hit the table with authority. The Chardonnay 2025, Reserve Chenin Blanc 2025 and Reserve White 2025 don’t whisper about potential. They declare arrival.

Rianie Strydom

And at the centre of this rise is Rianie Strydom, an established winemaker on the scene who doesn’t posture, doesn’t grandstand, doesn’t chase noise. She just delivers. Relentlessly. With precision. With instinct. With that rare, dangerous combination of intellect and gut-feel that separates the merely competent from the truly formidable.

You get the sense that Strydom doesn’t force wines into submission. She reads them. Watches. Waits. Then moves with surgical certainty. It’s not softness. It’s control. Discipline. The quiet confidence of someone who knows exactly what she’s doing, and doesn’t need applause to prove it. And does it all with a delicate touch. Delicate, but firm, pretty and memorable. A knowing feminine wink, optional.

And the vineyards? They’re not just pretty scenery for glossy brochures and to provide great background for selfies and bridal snaps. They matter.

These gradual, flowing slopes, brushed by maritime air and rooted deep into decomposed granite and stubborn clay, produce fruit with backbone, fruit that doesn’t collapse into flabby sweetness or lazy generosity. This is fruit with tension, nerve, structure. Grapes that demand respect. Grapes that reward patience.

Terroir here isn’t marketing poetry. It’s physical. You taste it in the mineral line running through the wines, that flicker of flint, that snap of acidity, that sense of something alive and deliberate in the glass. Yet, all this has a glow, charm and slide of cool lip-gloss. It’s all happening.

Take the Chardonnay 2025.

Barrel-fermented. Ten months in French oak. Thirty percent new Burgundy-style barrels, enough wood to frame the wine, not suffocate it. A measured touch of malolactic fermentation to smooth the edges, extended lees contact to build texture. Nothing excessive. Nothing careless. Minimum intervention, with the caressing when needed.

And the result?

A Chardonnay that carries itself like it knows its worth. Citrus blossom, flint, white stone fruit, yellow apple. Then, drifting in behind, notes of brioche and spice. Not loud, not flashy, but deliberate. The acidity doesn’t punch you in the mouth. It holds you steady. Keeps everything moving forward. Into the bright morning sunrise.

Then there’s the Reserve Chenin Blanc 2025, a wine that feels like the product of early mornings, cold hands, and relentless attention to detail.

Harvest starts at first light, when the air is still sharp and the vineyard hasn’t yet shrugged off the night. Finds that space between the mysteries of night and the hope and promise held by a new day. Four separate pickings. Each parcel handled individually, treated like it matters, because it does. Whole-bunch pressing. Settling. Fermentation in barrels of varying sizes. Time on the lees to build depth and muscle without losing nerve.

The wine that comes out the other end is layered and purring and alive. Citrus blossom, orange zest, pear, yellow peach, aromas that feel lifted straight from the summer vineyard. On the palate, grapefruit and lemon snap into place, followed by subtle spice and a finish that lingers like a memory of a jazz tune you once heard in an Algerian bar, but can’t seem to find again, yet keeps haunting.

Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s birthright, a grape that carries history, identity, Cape groove and Boland soul. In Strydom’s hands, it doesn’t feel nostalgic. It feels modern. Sharp. Confident.

And then there’s the Reserve White 2025, the blend, the ultimate test of judgment.

Sixty percent Chenin Blanc. Thirty percent Verdelho. Ten percent Chardonnay. Barrel-fermented. Ten months in French oak. A touch of new wood to provide polish and backbone. A veritable orchestra of divers, individual flavours and aromas and touches, which the conductor plays and shapes, into thing of harmony and wonder.

Blending is where winemakers either shine or get exposed. There’s nowhere to hide. Every decision matters. Every component must earn its place.

Here, the result is seamless. Citrus blossom and flint slide into white stone fruit and yellow apple. Grapefruit cuts through richness. Brioche adds depth. Nothing fights. Nothing dominates. Everything locks into place like a perfectly tuned engine.

That’s not luck. That’s mastery.

Taste these wines side by side and you start to see the bigger picture. This isn’t about isolated successes. This is about direction, about someone steering the ship with unwavering clarity.

Cavalli. A great address and great view from the start. Add wine to the box now. It has arrived.

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Greatness No Hassle at Haskell

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Rianie Strydom, wine-dame at Haskell.

LIKE,a hard man, a good Shiraz is not all that easy to find. I think the sentiments expressed in this article by Eric Asimov apply to South African wine lovers as much as they do to the Yanks.

But taste is in the mouth of the beholder, so I am not against those consumers who like their Shiraz wines full of sweet fruit, chunks of tooth-rattling wood and enough alcohol to drop a rhino at ten yards. When it comes to Shiraz, I prefer less to more. Like other Rh?+¦???+¦?+¦????ne varieties, the grape has enough inherent power and concentration of flavour of its own to deliver an elegant drop of varietal character without having to be dollied-up.

Locally I have always liked the austerity of the Muratie Shiraz with its classic earthy and leathery flavours. The Jordan 2003 is still one of my favourites ?+¦-+???+¦-ú?-¦?+¦-ú?+¦+¦ lean and un-showy, but with a very sexy perfume character.

One of the new greats is, to my mind, the Aeon from the much-trumped Haskell Vineyards in Stellenbosch’s Helderberg region. Haskell gives good Shiraz. It has done so with the Pillars, which caused a simultaneous wet-dream among the three blokes involved with a navel-gazing competition called the Tri Nations where wines from New Zealand, Australia and South Africa are pitted together.

In any event, with Rianie Strydom at the helm, Haskell has proven it is not just a pretty face with just about the right amount of money to burn that is required for those wishing to embark on a vinous adventure in Stellenbosch. Besides the Shiraz there is some cute Chardonnay and vibey Sauvignon Blanc, with an agreeable Bordeaux blend on the way.

As far as the Aeon 2007 is concerned, everything about it says “Monster”. The bottle is heavy enough to fog-up the windows of the World Wildlife Fund’s South African headquarters which are located just down the road from Haskell. Mucho carbon penalties for this one. (By the way, does anyone remember the carbon footprint anymore or is it just me thinking the whole greenie thing is as pass+¬ as the Platter Guide’s excuses for judging wines sighted?)

In any event, inside this heavy bottle is a very classy example of Shiraz. In the glass the wine is the colour of a freshly henna’d Nepalese virgin. The nose is like a drowning blonde: shy and quiet, until it gets some air. Then it really whacks you with dense potpourri, quince paste and freshly crushed cloves. Man, if this is foreplay?+¦-+???+¦-ú?-¦?+¦-+?-+..

Down the glug-hole, this wine goes down like a homesick mole. It is so gorgeously, awesomely delicious you want to drink the whole bottle from unfashionably fully-topped glasses.

The wooding is 65% new French which harnesses the tannins, combing out the harsh bits. Mouthfeel is complete and leaves one with a feeling of inner-sanctity. Flavours are graceful, elegant on the front palate but a rip-roaring rush as the wine gushes down the funnel.

Sage-brush. Prunes. Tapenade. Fresh bread. Cured meat. These are some of the riveting flavours I tasted. They took me to far-flung places. The flower market in Orange, Provence. Lucio’s bakery in downtown Portland. The prosciutto market in Florence. I saw and smelt and tasted colour and heard music that was too complex and exciting for an instrument to play.

Okay, so one bottle of Haskell Aeon is going to set you back around R300. But the smart, freshly laundered Russian money says this wine is going to be a keeper, and five years from now it should be a South African classic of well-deserved international status.

The terrain is right. The winemaker is right. More to say? Nothing left.

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