There might be more to the history of South African Cabernet Franc than records show, although—as in many factual depictions of the origins of Cape wine—the story is fluid. Officially, the first single-label Cabernet Franc was made by Paarl winery Landskroon in 1983, although as a blend, it had found its way into the earlier Bordeaux-style legends of Welgmeend (1979), Meerlust (1980) and Kanonkop (1981).
In 1981, all 35ha were planted to Cabernet Franc, according to Sawis stats, which has grown to a not-too-ubiquitous 796ha today. Despite the media attention the variety has received over the past decade, plantings have dropped – in 2006 they stood at 1022ha.
The fluidity comes in when talking to some of the older hands of Cape wine. Danie de Wet, who employed the famous Desiderius Pongrácz as part-time consultant on De Wetshof in the 1970s and 1980s, tells me that Pongrácz was convinced that a substantial part of the Cape winelands deemed to be under Cabernet Sauvignon at the time was actually hosting Cabernet Franc. This is underscored by the records of George Spies of GS fame, who had noted that the Durbanville vineyards used for his now-iconic GS Cabernet 1966 and 1968 wines were a combination of Franc and Sauvignon, which could be the reason why these wines were labelled “Cabernet” alone.
Whatever the formal and less official records may indicate, the fact is that Cabernet Franc is today a recognised and applauded part of South Africa’s wine offering, whether in stellar Bordeaux-style blends or in single varietal offerings of a mostly premium kind.
My introduction to local varietal bottling Cabernet Franc came, as to many, by ways of the wines from Warwick. These showed easier tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon, but held a sumptuous juicy deliciousness making them extremely approachable, without being fleeting and promiscuous. On many occasions I recommended Warwick Cabernet Franc to persons who were daunted by the tannic breadth of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage, and the replies were of positive delight.
When it comes to Cabernet Franc today, few could argue – and I’d take them on should they prefer to do so – that Bruwer Raats has taken ownership of the category. There are a number of reasons for this, including the man’s commitment to Cabernet Franc, one driven by a palpable conviction that this is the red grape upon which he is willing to stake his life. His honesty and infectious energy in doing so has added gravitas to the category. And having breathtaking wines to back-up his talk with that swaggering walk has made his two-decade crusade for Cabernet Franc an indelible part of the South African wine industry. It will be here forever.
The majestic quality of the Cabernet Francs from Raats Family Wines, steered by Bruwer and cousin Gavin Bruwer, were on show a while back with the showing of a few new releases. It was a highlight in 2024 thus far.
I have always been a huge fan of Raats Dolomite Cabernet Franc, the more accessibly priced wine in the range and an amicable, welcoming introduction to the variety for those less familiar with it. It is made from grapes grown in Polkadraai, as well as the neighbouring, lower region where Winshaw Vineyards lie. The vinification incorporates a portion of whole-bunch ferment, and a year’s aging in 50% older barrels and the rest in concrete.
Dolomite 2022 shows that Cabernet Franc ascribes to the ‘in youth is pleasure’ leitmotiv, the wine being completely at ease with itself at such an early age. I’ve had plenty of this wine five to six years after vintage. And while maturation adds dimension and a settled comfort, the wine is excellent upon release.
The charm lies in under-stated exuberance. Brightness does not elevate or push flavours, instead it blends with taste – seamlessly so – offering a compote of dark and red fruit with a thread of savoury and petal, stemless potpourri. The balance between freshness and an inner settled deliciousness is pin-point accurate, making the word “complete” an operative one.
With the door opened to experience greatness, I jump into the rarified realm of the Eden High Density Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2022 from 0.2ha vineyard planted alongside Bruwer’s house on Polkadraai Hills. A 15% portion is whole-bunch fermented, aging is 10 months in new barrel, with the wine then racked to old wood for another eight.
South-facing, the vines bask in the intense glow of morning sun, a welcoming aspect as Cabernet Franc can suffer from a lettuce-like greenness which, although possibly attractive to vegans and lentil-burger fans, is frowned upon. But well-ripened grapes, in balance and synch, unleashes the extraordinary profile for which the variety is being made more famous.
The new vintage of Raats Eden High Density Cabernet Franc is resoundingly great, but my opinion thereof is reined in upon remembering the words of writer Terry Theise:”Many wines let you taste the noise. But only the very best wines let you taste the silence.”
But there is so much to say.
The wine is the colour of freshly drawn blood lying in a pool on the floor of a Gothic cathedral where spring sunlight pierces the stained-glass window. I smell warm prune, shriveled dates, and the scent of a winter Berg wind blowing through Cape Fynbos. The taste is immense, plunging onto the palate like an Acapulco high-diver, falling beneath the surface and gracefully gliding in the silence of an unknown world.
An irony tinge extends the wine’s connection to blood, pulsating with the soul-enveloping essence of black-currant and warm tar; tomato-leaf lurks, bordering on early-cured Jamón Ibérico; a henna-tattooed hand holds ground spice, cardamom and paprika; tannins run long and true, yet are balletic and shimmering, giving life and joy to the overall experience.
Real history writes itself.
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