The Village of Hospitality and Pinot Noir

Afrikaans, the lingua franca of the South African wine industry, has a plethora of words non-translatable into English. One of these is “kuier” – pronounced “kay-er” – a handy verb, adjective and noun.

The most conservative use implies kuier‘s definition of “visit” or “call-upon”. Such as, I am going to pop around for a kuier at Château Pétrus for the week-end. Or Nigella Lawson came to kuier at my place bearing crumpet and Champagne while I showed some boerie.

A more convivial use of this word, and here is where the untranslatable part comes in, is using kuier to imply a convivial gathering and a friendly, warm-hearted hospitable experience. While one can indeed go and kuier your terminally ill mother-in-law in ICU, the same word crosses-over for use in describing less sombre and less-pained emotional experiences. This would be to the tune of “Max brought a crate of Guinness to my place to watch the rugby, and we kuiered until dawn.”

This Afrikaans word comes to mind often when thinking about Pinot Noir. For the late Ronnie Melck, owner of Stellenbosch’s Muratie Estate, former CEO at Stellenbosch Farmers Winery, legendary raconteur and recognised as one of the most accomplished wine-tasters the country has ever produced, used to describe Pinot Noir as his favourite kuier-wine. In other words, if you are going to be in an environment of hospitality where casual camaraderie among friends drives the occasion, the best wine to drink in this lusty, cordial environment is Pinot Noir.

Thing is, the image and price of Pinot Noir challenges its suitability as a party-wine. Due to the aura and romance around this Burgundian variety, as well as its reputation for making the world’s rarest and most expensive wines, Pinot Noir does not exactly spring to mind when you are looking for a case of something gluggable for a poker-night or for a few bottles of wine to drink in deep draughts around the fire after a day’s fishing.

The majority of Pinot Noir wines found on the shelves are north of R350, and when perusing said wine racks before heading home with your take-out pizza, selecting a Pinot Noir is unlikely.

Heady price-tags for the variety also make it hard for young folk venturing forth on the journey of wine discovery to get a handle on the joys of Pinot Noir. Many of the kids say they’d dig to take a bottle or two to a mate’s flat where their recent tattoo-markings will be compared, but just don’t have the “bucks” for Pinot Noir.

This is where Paul Clüver, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialists from Elgin, are opening up a whole new channel for Pinot Noir appreciation and enjoyment with the accessible wine under the Paul Clüver Village offering. On the estate’s upper-tier one finds the icon Seven Flags Pinot Noir, followed by the famous Estate wine, both among South Africa’s leading renditions of Pinot Noir.

With Paul Clüver’s Village Pinot Noir, the brand has created a delectable and sappy Pinot Noir featuring all the inherent flavours expected of the grape, but made to a style not requiring intense aging or a consumer’s delving into further credit. The bottle-price of around R165 makes many points in this regard.

In making the Village, Paul Clüver’s younger vineyards are used, the more senior sticks headed for Estate or Seven Flags Pinot Noir. In their youth, the grapes offer a juicy brightness and more forgiving tannins, yet have the pedigree and breeding to present structure commanding the respect one expects from this noble variety.

Aging is done for ten months in older French oak barrels as well as 5000 litre foudré, freeing the testosterone-driven tannins of youth, broadening flavour profile and giving the wine an agreeable and inviting silkiness.

The late Ronnie Melck.

The Paul Clüver Village Pinot Noir 2025 is currently on the market, and although casual “kuier” wines do not usually invite critical appraisal, I find myself in a state of open-hearted generous enthusiasm about such a lovely Pinot Noir.

Cherry notes offer a summery sweetness, upfront, before a slight bacon-kip savouriness perks the palate. A discernible Pinot Noir typicity of stony autumn cool verges on the edges, providing a dappled brightness and multi-faceted dimension to the wine. Palate-weight is akin to an owl feather, with a coaxing furriness backed by a discernible stem of pliable, yet pronounced rigour. Delicious and more-ish as it is, the wine has a hum of the imposing trumpet-call that heralds an honest Pinot Noir remaining true to its roots, secure to its calling.

Served just chilled, there’s a case in the fridge, so do come and kuier.

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Port: Greatness Never Goes out of Style

Grahams

One of the signs that the world is becoming a place for pussies is the downward spiral in global Port consumption. The alcoholic power of this magnificent wine style, as well as its delectable and uncompromising sweetness, has fallen out of favour in a wine world obsessed with purporting to drink stuff of restrained elegance and linearity. A hefty 18% per volume sugar-induced kick appears too much to handle for sensitive modern souls, and the inky blackness might just stain those freshly capped teeth.

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Bilton Viognier and the Dissing of Generalisation

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The Bilton Wines sales team about to drop off some Viognier 2008.

Yes we can. Viognier, South African that is, is deliciously drinkable. But then again, whoever said it wasn’t?

Like Merlot, Viognier has been victim of the shallow throwaway line: “We can’t make that in South Africa.” Said thrower then goes on to pontificate about “excessive greenness”, a perceived hiccup in Merlot’s ripening procedure under South African conditions. Really? So how, pray, is the country making such sterling Bordeaux-style blends if the Merlot is deemed to be so tart?

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Wineries Show Quiet Confidence ahead of Testing Cook-off

The spate of Cold Fronts lashing the Western Cape over the past few weeks were only the precursor to the real storm set to take place this Friday when wineries Muratie Estate and DuToitskloof Winery square off in the first Boland Waterblommetjie Championship Cook-off. The ubiquitous waterblommetjie, a classic local ingredient used in preparing a traditional hearty stew, takes centre stage when a panel of esteemed judges line-up to decide who is the Boland’s Waterblommetjie Champion.

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Stellenbosch’s One Grape Question

Stellenbosch is, and always will be, the greatest red wine producing region in South Africa. Why? Same reason that Hawaii has great pipeline, Germans make good cars and Chelsea will win the Champions League: because God intended it that way.

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Paardeberg Steals the Crown from Out-of-Form Simonsberg

Putting on a brave face - Rijk and Kim Melck from Simonsberg with judge Neil Pendock.

In a week-end of international tragedies, culinary travesty hit the Stellenbosch Wine Region when the Simonsberg ward lost its annual Potjiekos Competition against the Paardeberg. Simonsberg, an established community inhabited by award-winning winemakers and a number of foodie personalities, were well and truly beaten by a Paardeberg team who were better in all aspects of Potjiekos making. Continue reading

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Greatness No Hassle at Haskell

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Rianie Strydom, wine-dame at Haskell.

LIKE,a hard man, a good Shiraz is not all that easy to find. I think the sentiments expressed in this article by Eric Asimov apply to South African wine lovers as much as they do to the Yanks.

But taste is in the mouth of the beholder, so I am not against those consumers who like their Shiraz wines full of sweet fruit, chunks of tooth-rattling wood and enough alcohol to drop a rhino at ten yards. When it comes to Shiraz, I prefer less to more. Like other Rh?+¦???+¦?+¦????ne varieties, the grape has enough inherent power and concentration of flavour of its own to deliver an elegant drop of varietal character without having to be dollied-up.

Locally I have always liked the austerity of the Muratie Shiraz with its classic earthy and leathery flavours. The Jordan 2003 is still one of my favourites ?+¦-+???+¦-ú?-¦?+¦-ú?+¦+¦ lean and un-showy, but with a very sexy perfume character.

One of the new greats is, to my mind, the Aeon from the much-trumped Haskell Vineyards in Stellenbosch’s Helderberg region. Haskell gives good Shiraz. It has done so with the Pillars, which caused a simultaneous wet-dream among the three blokes involved with a navel-gazing competition called the Tri Nations where wines from New Zealand, Australia and South Africa are pitted together.

In any event, with Rianie Strydom at the helm, Haskell has proven it is not just a pretty face with just about the right amount of money to burn that is required for those wishing to embark on a vinous adventure in Stellenbosch. Besides the Shiraz there is some cute Chardonnay and vibey Sauvignon Blanc, with an agreeable Bordeaux blend on the way.

As far as the Aeon 2007 is concerned, everything about it says “Monster”. The bottle is heavy enough to fog-up the windows of the World Wildlife Fund’s South African headquarters which are located just down the road from Haskell. Mucho carbon penalties for this one. (By the way, does anyone remember the carbon footprint anymore or is it just me thinking the whole greenie thing is as pass+¬ as the Platter Guide’s excuses for judging wines sighted?)

In any event, inside this heavy bottle is a very classy example of Shiraz. In the glass the wine is the colour of a freshly henna’d Nepalese virgin. The nose is like a drowning blonde: shy and quiet, until it gets some air. Then it really whacks you with dense potpourri, quince paste and freshly crushed cloves. Man, if this is foreplay?+¦-+???+¦-ú?-¦?+¦-+?-+..

Down the glug-hole, this wine goes down like a homesick mole. It is so gorgeously, awesomely delicious you want to drink the whole bottle from unfashionably fully-topped glasses.

The wooding is 65% new French which harnesses the tannins, combing out the harsh bits. Mouthfeel is complete and leaves one with a feeling of inner-sanctity. Flavours are graceful, elegant on the front palate but a rip-roaring rush as the wine gushes down the funnel.

Sage-brush. Prunes. Tapenade. Fresh bread. Cured meat. These are some of the riveting flavours I tasted. They took me to far-flung places. The flower market in Orange, Provence. Lucio’s bakery in downtown Portland. The prosciutto market in Florence. I saw and smelt and tasted colour and heard music that was too complex and exciting for an instrument to play.

Okay, so one bottle of Haskell Aeon is going to set you back around R300. But the smart, freshly laundered Russian money says this wine is going to be a keeper, and five years from now it should be a South African classic of well-deserved international status.

The terrain is right. The winemaker is right. More to say? Nothing left.

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