Diemersdal’s Winning Ways

Those who follow the results of wine competitions and other judging mechanisms to gauge the quality of fermented grape juice may – over the past decade or so – witnessed Diemersdal Estate in Durbanville appearing on the winners’ podia. with remarkable regularity. Whether it is collecting a Veritas Double Gold or three each year, or securing a place in the Top 10 Pinotage and Top 10 Sauvignon Blanc competitions, Diemersdal seems to these days occupy the spotlight whenever wine accolades are handed out.

Yet the estate’s achievements over the past six months have surpassed even its previous successes, leading one to conclude with some confidence that, in terms of competition results, Diemersdal is currently the most highly acclaimed wine estate in South Africa.

This follows the announcement of the results of the Investec Trophy Wine Show, arguably the country’s most demanding wine competition, where Diemersdal was named Champion Winemaker – effectively the award for the competition’s best overall performer based on the results achieved by its wines.

The estate secured two trophies: Best Niche White Wine for Grüner Veltliner 2024 and Best Museum Class Sauvignon Blanc for The Journal Sauvignon Blanc 2021. Gold medals were also awarded to the Bordeaux-style blend Private Collection 2021, Syrah 2023 and The Journal Pinotage 2023. It is an extraordinary achievement considering the calibre of the local and international judges involved in the Investec Trophy Wine Show and chairman Michael Fridjhon’s exacting standards for wines deemed worthy of gold medal and trophy recognition.

Those with a good memory will recognise that these latest honours follow Diemersdal’s selection as the Platter’s Guide Top Producer for 2026, an accolade more commonly associated with fashionable, media-hyped and supposedly “cool” producers than with a long-established family estate in Durbanville producing wines on a scale that could be interpreted as generous.

To borrow, somewhat unfairly, from one of rugby great Naas Botha’s most famous quotations, one could say that “at the end of the day” Diemersdal can justifiably be regarded as one of South Africa’s leading and most versatile wine producers, based on the evidence before us. Naturally there will be self-appointed wine experts who argue that many wineries do not enter competitions such as the Trophy Wine Show, and that any claim of being the “best” is therefore invalid. To these sceptics one might quote another rugby legend, Boy Louw, who famously advised doubters to “looks at the scoreboard”.

Thys Louw

The more relevant question – one often posed to wine commentators – is what makes Diemersdal such a consistently successful producer? Importantly, its achievements extend far beyond the competition circuit. The estate also enjoys considerable esteem among wine consumers.

Producing around three million bottles annually, Diemersdal is one of the country’s most successful commercial wine enterprises. Incidentally, this fact undermines the theory held by some wine purists that producers working at scale are incapable of making wines of distinction and outstanding quality.

The obvious questions therefore become: how does Diemersdal do it, and why does the estate command such respect among judges and consumers alike?

The most straightforward answer is an unwavering commitment to quality across every wine in its diverse portfolio of reds and whites. This is something owner and winemaker Thys Louw and his teams in the vineyards and cellar live every day, a tenet instantly apparent to anyone fortunate enough to spend time observing how the estate operates.

One does not need a doctorate in viticulture to see that the vineyards are farmed by people who, for generations, have understood that the birthplace of wine deserves reverence. Long rows of vines stretch across immaculate low ridges. There is scarcely a weed to be seen, and the vines are uniform and meticulously maintained. Whether shortly after winter pruning or during the vigorous growth of early summer, Diemersdal’s vineyards appear ready for the cover of an international wine publication. Even the cover crops seem groomed to perfection.

As Thys often says, the belief that vineyard care lies at the heart of wine quality is an ethos established by the first Louw family members who arrived at Diemersdal in 1885. His task is simply to build on that legacy.

Place also plays a vital role in this philosophy. Durbanville’s maritime climate, gentle slopes and weathered granite soils allow the vineyards to produce grapes with the flavour and aroma profiles required to make wines of distinction and regional character. Speaking to Thys and his father Tienie, from whom he took over in 2005, one is struck by the respect they hold for Durbanville as a wine region and the influence it has on their approach to winemaking.

The region itself undoubtedly benefits from this outlook. Diemersdal’s recent competition successes will surely remind many people – if they did not know it already – that Durbanville stands shoulder to shoulder with South Africa’s finest wine regions.

In the cellar, the pursuit of quality is driven by a combination of tradition and innovation, together with an unapologetic belief that only the best will do. If Thys’s favourite Sauvignon Blanc producers in Sancerre use Stockinger barrels and he believes those barrels contribute the desired dimension to his wines, then Stockinger it will be, regardless of cost.

Tradition remains equally important. Pinotage has been part of Diemersdal’s story for decades. If the best results come from manually punching down fermenting grapes in large old open wooden fermenters, then that is how the wine will continue to be made.

Innovation, particularly with Sauvignon Blanc, is another hallmark of the estate. One example is the Winter Ferment Sauvignon Blanc. Juice from the grape press is frozen immediately after harvest. Six months later, in the depths of winter, it is thawed and fermented, resulting in a wine with a distinctive aromatic profile.

This forward-thinking approach is balanced by a profound appreciation for history, something visible throughout the estate’s immaculate white buildings and historic Cape Dutch gables. Six generations of the Louw family have farmed here, while Thys and Tienie are direct descendants of Jan “Broertjie” Louw, who was making wine along the Liesbeek River as early as 1660 and is regarded as South Africa’s first wine farmer.

History and culture, reflected in Diemersdal’s labels and identity, play an important role in the appeal of the brand. Wine consumers continue to value the cultural connection between a glass of wine and the people who made it, a quality that sets wine apart from most other alcoholic beverages.

Every generation contributes to the estate’s history and reputation. Good wine has always been made at Diemersdal. But the current custodians have undoubtedly fostered something different among Durbanville’s vineyards.

They have created a culture of winning.

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USA Trophy Show Judge Wooed by Cape Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay


This article appeared in Die Burger newspaper on 17th May and has been translated from Afrikaans.

One of the hallmarks of the Cape wine industry is its enthusiasm for wine competitions, especially for a relatively small producer like South Africa. The organisers, of course, benefit the most, as their coffers swell with the entry fees that cellars must pay to submit their wines for these shows. Over the years, however, one learns to distinguish between competitions that genuinely seek to enhance the recognition of wine quality and those that are mere money-making ventures.

The Trophy Wine Show has emerged over the past two decades as arguably the most authoritative and stringent wine competition for local wines. This prestigious event is the brainchild of Michael Fridjhon, South Africa’s most renowned wine personality, whose reputation as a wine expert, meticulous organiser, and authoritative voice on wine and wine quality is indisputable. A distinctive feature of the Trophy Wine Show is that Michael annually invites two or three top international wine experts to South Africa to join respected local judges in evaluating approximately 600 entries of diverse wine types and styles.

After the judging process, invited guests have the opportunity to hear the insights of these international experts on the wines they have assessed, with the identities of the wines kept anonymous. The judges taste the wines blind, without labels, and the results are announced in mid-June.

This year, the name Lisa Perrotti-Brown caught my eye on the list of judges. As a holder of the British Master of Wine qualification—the pinnacle of wine credentials—Lisa is undoubtedly a wine expert. It is said to be easier to obtain a license to fly a combat helicopter than to earn this Master of Wine certificate.

Moreover, as an American wine writer and critic based in Napa, California, her impressions of South African wines are vitally important. The local wine industry has long struggled to elevate its international image to achieve better prices abroad. America, being the world’s most significant wine import market, is crucial for South Africa to establish a commercially viable presence, a goal it has pursued for thirty years with little notable success.

Perrotti-Brown, who monitors South African wines alongside those from many other countries, acknowledges that the country’s wine profile is quite low in America. “But don’t be too hard on yourselves,” she advises. She explains that many people who view America as the golden market for wine do not realise how competitive it is over there.

“Firstly, America produces a vast amount of wine across all price classes,” says Perrotti-Brown. “Many South African producers believe that their wines can be price-competitive due to the weak rand and strong dollar. But it doesn’t work that way. America produces even cheaper wines, and there are also low-priced wines from South America and Europe. So, forget positioning yourself as a cheap wine country offering value for money.

Lisa Perrotti-Brown in the zone.

“Look at what happened to Australia when they tried to conquer America with that cheap Yellowtail stuff. They clashed with other cheap wines and left Australia with the image of a country that only offers low-price, low-quality wines.”

Following her week-long tasting for the Trophy Wine Show, Perrotti-Brown is more convinced than ever that South Africa should not be associated with low-quality wines. “The wines are truly outstanding, almost overwhelming,” she says—this coming just days after she was invited to assess the en primeurs from top cellars in Bordeaux, France, with her palate still resonating with the flavours of Petrus, Margaux, Angelus, and Lafite.

“At the Trophy Show, I found myself on the panel judging Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which is perfect for me since these are some of my favourite wine types and also a specialty of California,” says Perrotti-Brown. Ten years since her last visit to the Cape, she notes a significant improvement in the presentation of the country’s Cabernet Sauvignons.

“It’s a bit frustrating to talk now because, as judges, we obviously don’t know which regions or vintages we tasted,” she says. “But unlike ten years ago at the same competition, the Cabernet Sauvignon at this year’s Trophy Show generally shows more finesse and freshness. It’s clear that winemakers are more cautious about how much new oak they use and for how long the wines are in wood—I can’t recall any wines that tasted like they were made by a lumberjack. These were elegant, lovely wines that can stand alongside the great Cabernet Sauvignons of the world.”

She was also on the panel reviewing red Bordeaux blends, a category that South Africans regard as formidable due to the legendary Cape wines known for this style. “Blended wines, especially from a relatively unknown wine country, are very difficult to sell in America,” observes Perrotti-Brown. “What does the average person know about a red blend? Nothing, unless the producer is an icon like Haut-Brion or Château Margaux. But if the bottle simply says Cabernet Sauvignon, you have a better chance of catching the consumer’s attention, as they at least recognise the grape.

Are there many Cabernet Sauvignon wines in the world? Certainly. But is there something distinctive about the South African offerings? “You know, there is such a lovely herbal character in some wines, like a wildflower note,” she says. “This vegetal-aspect is not overwhelming, not the green herb and leafy effect of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that aren’t properly ripe, but instead the most beautiful hint of veld and fynbos. It’s truly special, and I gave the wines with this character my top scores.”

Perrotti-Brown is now heading to the airport for her long flight to San Francisco, near Napa. I ask her if she will reflect on any “wow” factors during her whirlwind wine visit. “South African Chardonnay,” she says. “For me, this category was even stronger than the Cabernet Sauvignons. Sublime wines, fruit and sun, but with long, cool streams of refinement and complexity, among the best in the world. I still have plenty of time to find the right words and will let you know.”

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What a Whopper! Meerlust Pinot Noir

South Africa’s venture into the making of Pinot Noir did not get a good rap from the judges at this year’s Trophy Wine Show, arguably the strictest in the ever-growing South African wine competition circuit. No, results for Michael Fridjhon’s annual show are not out yet, but last week at the feedback session, agreement that Cape Pinot Noir appears to be a work in progress seemed unanimous.

Not that failing to claim a gold gong at this competition is a calamity – of the 645 entries, only some 5% secured a gold medal, which is about the annual average for the Trophy Show. And when it came to judges’ commenting on the wines entered, the Pinot Noir category was given a brief diss. Narina Cloete, Blaauwklippen winemaker who judged this sector said the wines lacked the reflection of a suitable site. Michael himself alluded to the fact that many regaled Cape Pinot Noir marques were not entering competitions – punters paying R500 and north for a bottle of Pinot Noir were apt to be less supportive of said wine should it fail to meet expectations by not roping any bling in shows entered.

Despite not having a cooking clue as to what a gold medal Pinot Noir – or any other wine, for that matter – looks like, it is a cultivar I enjoy, believing that like rugby matches and pizza, even sub-standard Pinot Noirs are better than not having any in all. My promiscuous drinking of the royal Burgundian red recently had me charmed by the 2022 Pinot Noir from Meerlust Estate in Stellenbosch, one of the few Stellenbosch farms to venture into Pinot Noir and one underscoring the fact that the appellation is actually able of making wines with a distinctive edge from this cultivar.

Look, cool climate Elgin and Hemel-en-Aarde it ain’t, despite the Meerlust patch in what is known as Stellenbosch South is markedly cooler than Simonsberg, Helderberg and Polkadraai. This Pinot Noir does not have any red floral perfume or flirtatiously leaping berry-fruit, but what it lacks in these departments it makes-up for in structure, a reverberating crunch of black fruit and sheer polished presence on the palate.

Aromas are meaty, bloody and feral with a slight grasp of forest-floor, just enough to make the cultivar sign its initials. The wine is plush in the mouth, hitting the senses secure and true with sour cherry, dried fig and mulberry, tannins being sinewy, long and rippling. Burgundy-acolytes will be referencing northern parts of that region, the Meerlust showing a density and power perfected by Gevrey-Chambertin as opposed to the more expansively decorative offerings from lower down Musigny way. I just think it is great show by one of Stellenbosch’s leading producers, more known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Rubicon Bordeaux-style red blend, to comfortably also offer a class Pinot Noir in its arsenal.

Of course, there is also the only Meerlust white wine, namely Chardonnay, and the wine from vintage 2022 shows a lovable fragility that makes you want to stroke the bottle’s head before pouring the next glass. There is a crispness to the wine that is alert and tantalising, as well as accurate expression of varietal character in the specks of sage-butter, Seville orange rind and lemon curd. Pronounced as they are, these flavours are stitched together in a fine, detailed tapestry displaying grace and light rather than resounding and stern depth. Good, and prettily so.  

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Vriesenhof: the Home of Greatness

Everyone needs a bit of yesteryear now and again. And whenever this feeling raises its head, Vriesenhof is my place.

Look, I’m all for progress. And having resided and worked in Stellenbosch for almost four decades I am stunned by the continuous evolution the wine industry has shown. Not only in its incomparable wine quality, but the imagination and initiative wine-farm owners have shown in turning the region into a haven for tourists and other visitors. Gourmet restaurants. Cavernous, shiny venues with gorgeous views offering detailed wine-tastings to rows of eager tour groups. Art collections and play-spaces for kids.

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Travels of Power and Seduction on the High Road

From coke-head to wine boffin, Jay McInerney.
From coke-head to wine boffin, Jay McInerney.

Jay McInerney, the American novelist who proved that one can become a competent wine writer after years of heavy cocaine snorting, says he can smell a Haut-Brion Bordeaux wine from across the room. Whether this says something about that wine or Jay’s perceptive olfactory sense is not clear, but after all the Bolivian marching powder the Dude did, my money is on the wine.

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Top 100 Wins, Old Mutual Continues to Screw Grape Things

The Top 100 Wines Competition, which has until now generated a lukewarm attitude in the industry, has suddenly been catapulted into the forefront of the South African wine competition scene. The reason for this is the announcement that UltraLiquors, one of the country’s most important sellers of wine, has teamed-up with Robin von Holdt’s Top 100.

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On the Blacklands’ Tracks of Nature

I have been not unwilling, but reluctant, to add my penny to the fortune of riches amassed by the Swartland region over the past few years. The area holds a dear place in my weary heart, as the family farm called Swartboskraal is situated in the Swartland’s sandveld soul. To me the Swartland is a desolate and mysterious place, filled with tales of hardship told by people to whom the term “salt of the earth” does not do justice.

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